Food, as I’ve said a thousand times over, is so much more than the sustenance for our bellies and bodied. The social quality of it influence our behaviours, personalities, relationships and even what we hold to be our traditions and heritage. Yet this aspect is often overlooked in nutrition, food, and mental health studies and the resulting discussions especially when it comes to sub ‘cultures’ of food such as the gluten-free diet. One member of the gluten free blogging community, Meg from The Gluten Free Boulangerie, is seeking to change this dialogue, and I’ve invited her here today to share a bit about her research project ( with comment from me in blue). Please read on to see how you can share your gluten free story with Meg and help shift the way we discuss the culture of gluten free living:
Far from being a fixed snapshot of “the way it’s always been done,” tradition is a living thing subject to constant change and evolution. This is especially apparent for food traditions. Cultural heritage, family customs, personal experiences, geographic location, and changes in technology are just a few of the things that contribute to what each of us may consider traditional, and all influence rituals and eating habits as they are practiced and shared between individuals and across generations.
For me, as for millions of others, there is an added factor that shapes my food traditions: I cannot eat gluten.
Some of the resulting changes are fairly straightforward (What specific kinds of ingredients can or can’t be used?), while others are more nuanced (How are special occasions celebrated? What aspects of the local food scene are accessible? What specific foods and styles of cuisine lend themselves best to GF ingredients, and so become popular within the GF community?). Examined in this way, it becomes clear that the meaning of being gluten-free goes far beyond the particulars of the diet – it becomes a culture. Our culture (as a social worker I know there are sub cultures even with in distinct cultures, and it is great to see this recognition taking place in other areas of study!).
As someone with a background in both food science and food history, I have a special interest in this aspect of the gluten-free diet – beyond its medical and nutritional significance, food is also traditionally something joyous, communal, and meaningful. Some people view GF baking and cooking to be separate from traditional cuisine, but I consider our uses of GF ingredients to be an addition to those traditions, not a contrast to them (Yes! Spread that empowerment girl!). This is why I started the Gluten-Free History Project.
What is the Gluten-Free History Project?
I am aiming to document gluten-free food culture by recording the food traditions of individuals and families with celiac disease and gluten intolerance. Here’s the thing – the term “gluten-free diet” is actually pretty vague. All it means is that it excludes wheat, rye, and barley. It says nothing about what kind of food is eaten beyond that. Some people’s diets don’t change much at all, except for the specific ingredients used – breads, pasta, cakes, cookies, and so on can all be made from gluten-free flours. Other people might eat fewer flour products, instead preferring to stick with rice, potatoes, polenta, and so on in place of pasta or baked goods. Still others decide to cut out grains and starches entirely (there is far too much infighting in the community about which way is ‘right’). These changes might also depend on how much it differs from an individual’s eating patterns before diagnosis and how it fits with their personal food preferences. Some people have an entirely gluten-free kitchen, while others prepare separate food for celiac and non-celiac family members. People might cook/bake everything from scratch, or they might buy more prepared foods. …You get the idea. So, I want to know: What does your gluten-free diet look like?
Who should contribute?
Anyone who wants to share their experiences with gluten-free living is welcome to contribute (with particular interest in those who have a long history of being gluten free, those gluten free outside the USA, and those with multi-generational gluten free families)! I want to leave the questions pretty open-ended, as everyone’s experiences will be a bit different – I’m aiming to open a discussion, not just gather data. But to give you a place to start, here are some of the types of information I’m especially interested in:
- Adaptation of established family/cultural food traditions and creation of new ones, including recipe modification, special occasions, and daily meals
- The evolution of GF cookbooks/recipes and how people use them from the 1950s to today, such as specific books and other recipe sources, changing approaches/formulas in baking, staple ingredients called for, techniques used for working with GF ingredients, and creative substitutions
- The availability and evolution of GF supplies/products over time and in various places, particularly flours & other scratch ingredients
- Community and culture surrounding GF food online and in person, including the role of blogs, forums, restaurants/bakeries, support groups, and special events, as well as different cultural attitudes and perspectives on food sensitivity
What is the project for?
The culinary and cultural aspects of food sensitivity are severely underrepresented in most areas of food studies. Because of the staple status of wheat-based foods in many cuisines, celiac disease is far more than a medical condition – it fundamentally impacts traditions surrounding specific foods and ingredients, meal structure, food-related rituals, and more, and these effects deserve greater recognition as a legitimate part of culture. The ultimate purpose of this project is to establish a cultural history and unite people for whom gluten-free is a necessary way of life.
To contribute to the Gluten-Free History Project, or to see updates as the project progresses, more information can be found here: http://www.glutenfreeboulangerie.com/p/projects-new.html . You can also email Meg at gfboulangerie@gmail.com